Day 71: Braetongue - Achriesgill

The night was so quiet that I didn't even realise we were parked right where two roads crossed. Not a single rally-car-loving car bothered us. In the morning, while Daddy Edu was admiring the view with a face like he was in a natural yoghurt advert, I kept an eye on some suspicious cows. At eleven o'clock, we set off.

As soon as we left, we crossed the Tongue Causeway, which is like a really long bridge that joins two stretches of land over an arm of the sea. Well, it's not really a bridge, more like a raised section of road that makes the car seem to float between water and mountains. Pretty cool, although no ducks.

Then we tried to visit Ceannabeinne Beach, but from above the panorama didn't convince us: lots of people, cars and campervans everywhere and, on top of that, a zip line with humans shouting while they flew over the valley. Basically, zero tranquility. So we did a stylish U-turn and carried on towards Durness.

There we parked near Smoo Cave, and as soon as we put the handbrake on, a lady appeared who spoke to us in Spanish. Turns out she lives in Malaga, although her husband only dabbles in English. They chatted for a while with Daddy Edu, we said goodbye like old friends from the park and continued the excursion.

First, a walk along the cliffs with the wind in our ears and views that take your breath away (and your hat). Then we went down to Smoo Cave, a huge cave that starts like a pirate tunnel and ends in an echo chamber. It has a waterfall inside, water that sounds like a hotel shower and dark corners that were a bit scary. You can visit a deeper part by boat, but as they don't accept dogs (canine indignation!) and it also cost 15 pounds, we decided to leave it for another life.

We went back to the car, I watched the surroundings from the window while Daddy Edu did a quick shop at the Spar in Durness and we continued the route towards the southwest looking for a place to eat. And it was in Rhiconich where the story of the day crossed our path.

There, right on the road to the end of the world, a young girl was hitchhiking, looking like she'd lived three and a half adventures. Her name was Faith (yes, like hope, but with a backpack), and she had done a two-day trail to Durness. We took her to the Blairmore car park, where she had left her car. The conversation between humans was pleasant, although I suspect she was actually looking at me the whole time.

In that same car park we stayed to eat. There was everything: cars, campervans, ruminating sheep and diligent tourists. Faith said goodbye around half past four to drive more than six hours to Perth. Brave girl!

We moved to a nearby car park, the one at Oldshoremore Beach. What a wonder! Light sand, round rocks, the sea bluer than my favourite toys and even some little waves to get your back wet. We spent almost two hours there, lying like happy lizards. I went into the water with caution... and hey, not too bad. It wasn't freezing, just "brisk". Even Daddy Edu took a dip.

Around seven o'clock we went back to the car to look for a place to sleep. You know how it goes: beautiful places but full, others with no signal, some with more mosquitoes than stars… After a lot of searching, we went back to a place we had seen before, with views over Loch Inchard, although we parked on the other side of the road. Little traffic, a quiet atmosphere, and a sunset that dyed the water orange while the sheep ruminated in silence. Almost poetic.

I peed in a bush with a view and then we got into the campervan, tired but happy.