The morning dawned foggy and cold, the kind of weather that makes you wonder if you wouldn't be better off under the duvet. But since my humans are the "come on, we have to make the most of the day" type, we went out to explore the Downhill estate.

First we saw the Mussenden Temple, which isn't a temple for praying for treats, but a kind of stone roundabout with sea views, built to be a library. I think the lady who had it built wanted to be the influencer of her time. Afterwards, we came across the ruins of a palace (well... now it's four walls and a lot of imagination), and then we strolled through the Black Glen, a forest that looked like the set of a mystery movie, but without zombies. We ended up at the Belvedere, a structure with views that make humans take out their phones as if they were professional National Geographic photographers.

As we were walking, the weather started to improve. We went back to the camper and set off for Londonderry. Before entering the city, a technical stop: shopping at Tesco, petrol for the car and… not a single treat for me! Canine indignation.

We parked for free next to a park, on the other side of the river, and after lunch we crossed the Peace Bridge, which connects the two banks of the city. It's modern, curved and with a lot of symbolism of reconciliation... although I think that if they had put a snack shop in the middle, peace would have been achieved much sooner.

In the centre, we visited the Guildhall, a building so beautiful that it looked like it was taken from a fairy tale, with spectacular stained glass windows and a tower that surely has better views than my bed in the camper (and I always get the best spot). Then, we climbed the walls of Londonderry, which go around the entire centre. From above, you see churches, cannons and a lot of interesting places. We only saw the cathedral from the outside, because apparently I don't look like a respectable visitor (injustice number two of the day).

Then we went down to the Bogside neighbourhood, where the murals related to the Troubles are located. There is the famous Free Derry Corner, with its historic graffiti that says you have arrived at Free Derry. We saw the Bloody Sunday monument, which commemorates the victims of that tragedy, and also the monument to the hunger strikers. The story that these murals tell is not happy, but it is very important... and although I don't understand human politics, I know that these walls speak.

We went back to the centre, crossed back to the car and drove for half an hour. Suddenly, we were in Ireland again! No customs, no questions, no "are you carrying any prohibited kibble or bones?". We parked next to a causeway that connects the continent with Inch Island. Before we went to pick up, we took a walk among little birds and swans… I was thinking that one of those swans doesn't let you smell as easily as a dog, and that's better. The place is quiet, beautiful, and perfect for sleeping after a day of temples, walls and bridges that, although they give peace, don't give biscuits.