I woke up with that cold that gets into your whiskers and doesn't leave, even if you blink hard. Also, there was a fine drizzle, one of those treacherous ones, so the morning was quiet, without rushing, waiting for the sky to clear up a bit. When it finally seemed to give a truce, we went on foot to see Llerena in daylight. And here came the surprise: in the day it is almost the same as at night. Even a little more boring, because without the Christmas lights everything looked more serious and flatter.

We went again to the Plaza de España, which is the heart of the town. Papi Edu went into the church of Santa María de la Granada for a moment and I stayed outside, watching doors and pigeons. It was a lightning visit. The church is large and sober, of Gothic-Mudejar origin, with later reforms, and for centuries it was an important symbol in this area of Extremadura. Papi came out quickly, we looked at the town hall again, and just then it started to rain properly. Cold, rain and wind. Bad combination. So we turned around and went back to the car without dramatising, which was not necessary either.

A little before noon we started and after about forty-five kilometres we arrived at the Leo Complex, right next to the A-66 and the N-630 national road. It is one of those places designed for truckers and long-distance travellers, with a petrol station, restaurant, showers and, most importantly today, a laundry. We parked next to the washing machine booth and that's where the great laundry operation began. Two machines at the same time, because they weren't very big. Forty-five minutes later, straight to the dryer. One hour. The clothes were still damp. Another hour, this time in two dryers at the same time. In the meantime we ate quietly in the camper, watching the sky and the clock. In the end, finally, it was time to fold, put away and mentally celebrate the triumph over the wet clothes.

Now clean and tidy, we continued south, but avoiding the motorway. We took the N-630 national road, which is slower but much more beautiful than the A-66 motorway. The landscape is great, you drive without stress and I can look out the window with the face of a professional traveller. We passed Las Pajanosas and started looking for a place to sleep. There were many rest areas and picnic areas, but we decided to go to a place we already know and that never fails.

We arrived almost at night at the motorhome area of Castilleja de Guzmán. It is not an area with services, just a good place to park and sleep, but it has great views of Seville. From here you can see the Torre Pelli, that modern skyscraper that stands out on the horizon, and if you sharpen your eyesight, the Giralda appears tiny, as if someone had carefully placed it there. There are already about fifteen or twenty campers and motorhomes in the car park. We were parked between a Dutch and a Finnish one, well accompanied and well sheltered.

We stayed here to sleep. It's cool outside, we're warm inside, with Seville shining in the distance and me thinking that, for a day of rain, cold and washing machines, it's turned out quite well.